After two months of traversing 1,000 km of dirt "roads," visiting 16 schools and 18 communities, and interviewing 162 people, my work in the NEP (North East Province) is finished, for now.
After 11 schools, Kimathi could introduce the team by name, but still thought we were doing "a girls' education research," despite the fact that eventually he joined the community focus group discussions! Our last stop of that trek was back at the tea place in Abakore. This time he chatted with everyone, waved to the children, and even said, "InshaAllah" when I said "Yalah Garissa!" InshaAllah is "if god wills" in Arabic, and yalah is "let's go" in Arabic! It was wonderful to see his transformation as he became to understand some of the issues and people of NEP.
Along the way, several people thought I was an Arab, due to my dress and knowing a few Arabic phrases. Therefore, some members of the team thought I would be ok in Mandera. But we (I) decided against going to Mandera. Two weeks later, three aid workers were kidnapped during the day from the lodge where I would have stayed. I'm glad we decided against it.
I was unknowingly introduced to camel meat one night while sitting in a dark tented stick hut eating dinner. I had just finished dinner when I commented on how good the beef tasted. Hersi laughed and replied, "You like it? That's good. But it isn't beef. It is camel! If you think what you just had was good, try the hump!" And he handed me a white substance, but I told him I was full! I just couldn't eat the hump! I can eat a raw spleen right out of a cow when a Masai hands it to me, but I can't eat cooked camel hump!
I wrapped up the research assignment at the end of July. I presented our findings, during a formal presentation, to 28 people; education officials, UNICEF, and other representatives from NGOs working in education in the area. It was well received and collectively, the group made recommendations, which will be presented to the Ministry of Education. The ministry is currently creating a policy on nomadic/patoralist education.
The day following the presentation, I had a flood of visitors at the Nomad. Many people felt that they didn't have enough time to discuss and share ideas/feedback the day before. I was just thrilled. I sat for hours, drinking tea, and discussing the work with people as they literally came one after another all day! I was asked to stay on for an extra couple of weeks to conduct additional site visits and to take my time writing the drafts and editing, but I had to turn down the offer (will explain in another blog).
And the Nomad Palace....what can I say? When you live in a hotel for 1.5 months, the staff become like family. Towards the end of my stay, I started venturing out at night. I made a few non-Muslim friends and we often met at the local club in town to have a few drinks and dance. On several of these nights, I got calls around 10, from the Nomad management asking if I was ok! I still get phone calls from many of the regulars. And the calls all start out the same..."Alicia! Where are you? You are lost!!"
The treks were, without a doubt, the highlight of the past two months. Two years ago, while traveling East Africa in its entirety, I told Michelle that I wanted to explore northern Kenya the next time I visited Africa. And then I told her what I really needed to do was to go to The Gambia to visit my village, family and friends. I feel so blessed that a year later (the following African "trip") I was in The Gambia.I spent 7 days back in my village with my family. I was able to go because I was given the incredible opportunity to be the project coordinator of one of our department projects in Senegal and The Gambia. And then two years later, I found myself "exploring" northern Kenya.
During my time in NEP, I have met so many inspiring people, was adorned with gifts and acts of kindness. And what I learned....well, I'm still trying to capture it all (well most!) in the report!